Problem with framing a room in basement

[pgaggini]

There is a room in my mother-in-law's basement which was partially framed a long time ago and I was wanting to finish it. The problem is there is an exterior wall which sticks out and then back in and there is a rigid pipe going along the bottom of it so I am unsure how I should frame along this.
The pictures explain it better .
Any ideas would be much appreciated.

 

[Dirtmechanic]

That white efflourescence is watercoming through the wall. Big problem. That is your main water line also, with the main sutoff. You cannot bury it or you will find yourself ripping the wall apart one day. Fix the wet wall, and consider that area a closet and maybe it wont fill up with mold.

 

[pgaggini]

That white efflourescence is watercoming through the wall. Big problem. That is your main water line also, with the main sutoff. You cannot bury it or you will find yourself ripping the wall apart one day. Fix the wet wall, and consider that area a closet and maybe it wont fill up with mold.

Thanks for your reply mate. Do you have any suggestions for how I can fix the wet wall?

 

[Dirtmechanic]

Thanks for your reply mate. Do you have any suggestions for how I can fix the wet wall?

From outside or the source. Everybody is gonna suggest a block filler called Drylock, but I have seen it mold too. Personally I would freak out and use this shower seal called redgard. But its expensive and if water gets behind any of them its a fail.

 

[pgaggini]

Do I just apply the Redgard like a paint on the wall after I have cleaned the efflourescence off?

 

[Dirtmechanic]

Yeah its just a thick polymer.

 

[pgaggini]

Thanks again for your advice; I have another question.
When I started to clean the white efflourescence off the wall, parts started to crumble and I notice a thin crack going almost all the way down the wall.
I think the stuff that is crumbling off is concrete from a previous repair attempt.
Could you suggest what step I take next; I was thinking that I should continue cleaning off the white and loose parts of the wall, give the wall a layer of concrete and then apply the Redgard.
Is this correct ?

 

[Dirtmechanic]

Thanks again for your advice; I have another question.
When I started to clean the white efflourescence off the wall, parts started to crumble and I notice a thin crack going almost all the way down the wall.
I think the stuff that is crumbling off is concrete from a previous repair attempt.
Could you suggest what step I take next; I was thinking that I should continue cleaning off the white and loose parts of the wall, give the wall a layer of concrete and then apply the Redgard.
Is this correct ?

Basically yes. It needs a firm surface. QuickCrete makes a product that goes on the outside of CMUs that has fibers for a strengthening bonding layer. It can be mixed with a latex admix instead of just water for enhance water related performance.

 

[pgaggini]

Hello again, hope your still around.

The project was put on hold due to going back to work but I've started doing it again.
I wire brushed the walls to remove as much efflorescence and loose concrete as I could ( you can see in the attached photos what the walls look like now).
I went to Home Depot and asked for the Quikrete product you mentioned; the guy I talked to there said if there are no visible signs of leaks to use bonded topping mix with a bonding adhesive to go over the wall.
I bought these and got hold of some Redgard but I still am not sure if this topping mix is what is needed for the thin crack in the wall.
I have attached pictures of the crack and the products I bought.
Could you please advise if these are the correct things I need?
Cheers again for your time.

 

[Dirtmechanic]

That will do it. That is a real fine silica sand with latex rubber admix and something that sets fast. Maybe plaster or a polymer type glue. You can have a small "stretch" in masonry products using latexes and limes and such. It sound like it is of that design. Word of warning, they have made a product that sets in 90 minutes from what I read. That is reasonable, for a fast set product, but you still cannot muck around once you mix it. Let it dry before you put the redgard plastic on it. After that you will have a repaired wall with a thick red plastic tough ass coating and you can do whatever. The redgard only needs to be thick enough to cover. Its tough when dry. You could build a canoe with it.